Destination Angoulême: Our Essentials for a Weekend

Prepare to be charmed! Angoulême, this pearl of the Charente, has many surprises in store. Less than two hours by TGV from Paris-Montparnasse and just 35 minutes from Bordeaux, the Charente prefecture is famous for its International Comics Festival, attracting hundreds of thousands of enthusiasts each year. But don't limit yourself to this title alone: Angoulême is much more than just a Comic Strip Capital.

Royal city where Marguerite de Valois-Angoulême, sister of François I, was born, and a former industrial city specializing in paper manufacturing, Angoulême today mixes cultural heritage and dynamism with pride. Overlooking the Charente, it is divided into a lower part along the banks and an upper part surrounded by ramparts, offering a unique duality. This city on a human scale is easily discovered on foot, offering an ideal setting for an enriching getaway.

Put on your comfortable shoes and get ready to explore Angoulême in 48 hours ! Between the picturesque streets, historical monuments and local friendliness, this weekend promises to be unforgettable.

The International City of Comics and Images

As soon as you arrive in Angoulême, let yourself be seduced by the green banks of the Charente, a haven of peace appreciated by the locals. Nearby, the large free car park of the Musée de la Bande Dessinée, located rue des Papetiers, is the ideal starting point for your exploration.

Your first stop? The International City of Comics and Images, the true epicenter of the artistic dynamism of Angoulême. The City extends over two sites, on either side of the Charente. On the right bank, the Comic Strip Museum, housed in the superbly renovated former 19th century Magelis cellars, houses the largest collection of original comic strips in Europe. Covering 1,400 m², it traces the evolution of this art since 1830, offering hours of captivating exploration.

International city of comics and images by architect Rolland Castro

At the exit, don't miss the museum bookstore with its nearly 40,000 volumes, a true paradise for comic book lovers, where you can stroll for hours. On the other side of the Charente, the Bibliothèque de la Cité, accessible via the spectacular Moebius vessel designed by the architect Roland Castro in 1990, invites you to discover a collection of more than 15,000 works, perfect for reading enthusiasts peaceful.

Nearby, the Paper Museum, located in the former Le Nil paper mill, immerses you in the fascinating history of industrial paper manufacturing in Charente.

The banks of the Charente at the end of the day

At the end of the day, the shaded banks of the Charente transform into a privileged place to relax in Angoulême. Besson Bey Boulevard is popular with joggers, while lush and refreshing Marquet Island is the perfect place for a refreshing break or an invigorating swim. The emerald water of the Charente sparkles under the silvery reflections of the setting sun, while the green banks create a little corner of paradise.

For the complete bucolic experience, stop by River 102 to enjoy a cocktail made with local cognac while admiring the stunning river views. Then, follow the quays to the Bourgines footbridge, offering breathtaking views of the city.

The evening ends ideally at the Bivouak tavern, located on the island of Bourgines. Open every day from May to September, this friendly address is definitely the place to be. We meet there to taste local beers, play pétanque or enjoy an outdoor dinner, in a warm and relaxed atmosphere. The banks of the Charente thus offer an enchanted interlude, perfect for ending a day in Angoulême in style.

Discovery of Angoulême on foot: comics and heritage

The next day, get up early to explore the upper town of Angoulême. A free electric shuttle, passing in front of the Paper Museum, drops you off in town, making your day of discovery easier. Early in the morning, the market under Les Halles begins to come alive. These Halles d'Angoulême, masterpieces of metal architecture inspired by the Baltard pavilions, were designed by Edouard Warin and the engineer Pommier and erected in 1888. It is the perfect place to discover local products and enjoy soak up the Charente atmosphere.

Then, head to the tourist office, located in the courtyard of the Town Hall, to collect your free “Angoulême on a stroll” city map and begin the fun and captivating discovery trail, suitable for all ages. This circuit combines heritage and hunting for comic strip frescoes, encouraging you to look up and observe carefully. More than 40 frescoes, scattered throughout the urban landscape, reveal themselves as an artistic treasure hunt, with trompe-l'oeil and monumental paintings to discover.

Integrated into the artistic route, the emblematic sites of Angoulême's rich heritage are revealed one by one: the Town Hall, formerly a castle and count's residence, the ramparts, the Saint-André church, the Palais de Justice, the Saint-André Cathedral -Pierre, the Municipal Theater, the statue of Carnot… Take the time to stroll and appreciate the history and beauty of these monuments. Allow three to four hours to explore this circuit at your own pace and capture the most beautiful aspects of Angoulême in photos.

Photo Break in the City

Angoulême, with its picturesque landscapes and authentic charm, is a true paradise for photography enthusiasts. The city is full of incredible spots to capture its unique essence. Start with the ramparts of Boulevard Aristide Briand, offering breathtaking views of the Charente. The Château and gardens of Marguerite de Valois, today the Town Hall, also offer very photogenic angles to capture the immensity of the royal building.

But our absolute favorite is behind Place Carnot. This sunny balcony offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the lined houses and the city, evoking a Provençal atmosphere. An orientation table allows you to explore every detail of the landscape and appreciate the spectacular bird's-eye views. It's the ideal place for unforgettable photos!

Taste the delicacies of Angoulême

A visit to Angoulême would not be complete without savoring its local specialties. Among the delicacies not to be missed, Marguerites d'Angoulême stand out for their bitter dark chocolate, milk chocolate or white chocolate flavored with candied orange peel. Jean-Christophe Crosnier, one of the best chocolatiers in France, perpetuates this tradition at the Duceau chocolate factory, founded in the 18th century. The boutique, decorated with period paintings and Louis XVI woodwork, is a real treat for the eyes and taste buds.

For a coffee break, go to the Lolmède patisserie. Founded in 1889 by Édouard Lolmède, this house is famous for its whole almond macarons. Different from traditional macarons, these moist and tasty delights have been delighting gourmets for generations. With more than 30 varieties, these macarons are made in the purest artisanal tradition, each cookie being molded by hand.

Les Charmantes Placettes d’Angoulême, a whole art of living

Angoulême is full of adorable little squares, lined with charming terraces where it's nice to take a break. Place du Palet, lively with its cafes and colorful parasols, and Place Francis Louvel, surrounded by historic buildings facing the Palais de Justice, offer picturesque settings for an outdoor lunch. As for the Place du Minage, it invites you to relax with its shaded benches and welcoming terraces. Whether to enjoy a coffee, taste local specialties or simply enjoy the lively atmosphere, these places contribute to the relaxed and warm atmosphere of Angoulême.

A Memorable Evening in Angoulême

Time flies by, and now is the time to discover the nightlife of Angoulême before enjoying a friendly dinner. Start with La Déché, a bar with an evocative name located near the station. Divided into two distinct spaces, it offers on one side a taproom with an offbeat decor, mixing metal, concrete and contemporary art, perfect for relaxing after a busy day. On the other side, a craft brewery offers local beers brewed on site, for an authentic and tasty experience.

Then, head to La Girafe, an unmissable place in the historic heart of Angoulême. At nightfall, Rue de la Cloche Verte comes alive and La Girafe quickly becomes a popular meeting place. Its varied menu and original decoration make this bar a warm place where the famous Giraffe beer is ideal to share with friends in a friendly atmosphere.

For a touch of Ireland, head to Kennedy, an authentic pub with a wide selection of Irish beers and whiskeys. The atmosphere is always lively, especially during sports evenings, bringing together amateurs and enthusiasts.

Finally, if you return to the lower town, end your evening at River 102, where you can enjoy magnificent views of the Charente while savoring a relaxed atmosphere.

For dinner, Brûleau Charentais is the perfect address for a relaxed and authentic culinary experience. Renowned for its local meats cooked over a wood fire, this restaurant offers a menu highlighting regional flavors in a friendly atmosphere. The ideal place to end your day in Angoulême in style!

Article and photos by Lesley Williamson

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